April 14, 2010

Unified Curry Theory


 I am here today to rectify some common misconceptions about “curry.” Contrary to popular belief, curry does not contain “curry powder.” In fact, traditionally speaking, there is no such thing as curry powder in India, though many different powdered spice blends are used to make a variety of dishes. Also contrary to popular belief, curry is not complicated. It is the most simple thing in the world to make, and today you are going to learn how! (Then you too will possess the gift of being able to make any vegetable taste really freakin' good.)

The curry I am talking about is South Indian in origin, and also referred to as poriyal. You can think of it as a dry (not saucy), spicy Indian stir fry. For today’s example, I used green beans, but this method can be transferred to any number of vegetables with excellent results. I should also add, my kids won’t eat many vegetables plain, but will devour any number of vegetables prepared in this way (minus the chili powder). Last night, my five-year-old daughter plowed through her beans, and then insisted on refills of the cabbage curry from the night before. Green beans and cabbage in one night? Yes, this really did happen.

The hardest part of this recipe is chopping the green beans. My method is to grab a handful, line them up, trim the ends, and then chop. Though I suppose a food processor equipped with the right blade could handle this task easily. My in-laws always slice the beans quite small, into tiny rounds about a quarter of an inch thick. Mine usually end up closer to a half inch thick. If you’re feeling time-pressed or lazy, make larger pieces. However, note that larger pieces will take longer to cook and will absorb less of the flavor of the seasoning. If you’re really time pressed, you can pre-steam the beans, and then stir fry with the seasoning at the very end. This will tend to make your beans softer, which is how my husband likes them. Without steaming, they will be more crisp, which is how I like them.

Make sure you fry the mustard seeds until they pop, for maximum nutty flavor. The dry urad dal fries with the mustard seeds, and also absorbs their flavor. This provides a nice crunchy, nutty counterpoint to the soft green beans.


 Green Bean Curry (or as my in-laws say, Beans Curry)

2 tablespoons oil (neutral, like canola or grapeseed)
2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
1 tablespoon urad dal (black gram)*
1/4 teaspoon asafoetida powder*
1/2 teaspoon turmeric (optional)
1 pound green beans, ends trimmed and sliced ¼ inch thick
salt
4 tablespoons dried, flaked coconut (unsweetened)
red chili powder (or cayenne pepper) to taste**
wedges of lemon or lime (optional)

Heat oil on medium high heat, along with mustard seeds and urad dal, in a large skillet or saute pan. When the urad dal is light brown and the mustard seeds begin to sputter and pop and turn grey, lower the heat and add the asafoetida and turmeric (if using). Mix quickly with mustard seeds and urad dal, then quickly add the green beans and stir to distribute oil and seasoning. Add salt. Cook uncovered on medium heat until the beans reach the desired tenderness (I like mine to be a little crisp). Make sure to stir and scrape the bottom of the pan occasionally to avoid sticking. Add the coconut and cook for a couple minutes more. Add more salt to taste if needed. Separate the portion of beans you will feed your children, then add desired amount of chili powder to the beans remaining in the pan and cook a minute longer. Serve with wedges of lemon or lime. This is optional, but sometimes a little zing of lemon or lime juice helps to brighten the flavors. This dish goes well with dal (lentil stew) and rice.

(You can try adding other spices depending on the vegetable. For carrots, I usually add some powdered cumin and coriander as I add the asafoetida. Also consider leaving out the coconut depending on the vegetable. For example, coconut works well with carrots, but I don't like it with eggplant as much.)

* Just get yourself on over to an Indian grocery (or DeKalb Farmer’s Market if near Decatur) and buy some urad dal and some asafoetida. Then you can make this any time you want with all those vegetables you get from your CSA that you don’t know how to use. (Turnip curry, anyone?)

**If you are cooking for people who don’t mind a bit of spiciness, you may add the chili powder at the same time as you add the asafoetida.

P.S. Happy Tamil New Year!

6 comments:

Michael Otieno Molina said...

sound delicious!

Jenny said...

Thanks, it was!

Margie said...

Hmmm, I think blogspot has something against wordpress because it's not letting me post my comment. I love your blog, Jenny. I love that you love Cookus Interruptus too. What's your favorite Cynthia Lair recipe?

Jenny said...

Hmmm. Comments were giving me trouble earlier. At least you got through somehow. I do love Cookus Interruptus, thanks to you, since you were the one who first told me about it. I checked out her book from the library, and loved it. Someday I'll buy it, but I have a list a mile wide of books I need to buy. Anyway, I really liked the kale recipe, where it's braised with the onions, and a little mirin. I love kale anyway, but this was amazing. I've made it several times now. Her recipes are so simple too. Simplicity is good.

Margie said...

That conversation completely slipped my mind! I've checked that book out of the library many times. In fact, many of the oil stains on it are mine - oops! Have you tried her Be Bop Breakfast yet?! Kale & Kim Chi both in the same recipe. It doesn't get any better!

Jenny said...

Heh. I may be responsible for a few too. They've gotta expect that, right? I haven't tried Be Bop yet, but will give it a go on the next check out. I love kim chi. I need to find some without shrimp paste though. Maybe I should make my own? Do I have it in me to go there? Someday...

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